Saturday, October 11, 2014

2014 June Cruise - St. Michaels MD


We drove to St. Michaels, Maryland in mid June for a five day cruise.  The weather forecast was for temperatures in the low 60's and lots of rain so I rented a slip at the Harbor Inn.  Other than a few large power yachts, we appeared to be the only transients.  It was nice to have hot showers, breakfast and other amenities.  This was our first cruise in our Core Sound 20 Mark II, newly renamed Wren.  It was also training for the 2014 Watertribe North Carolina Challenge scheduled in late September so we didn't bring a motor, relying exclusively on our new oars and sail.

Heading out - viewed through two of our fellow transients
On the first day it rained most of the time but we were able to get out for three or four hours in the afternoon.  The new oars worked well and we had an exhilarating 16 mile sail to the Wye river and back under a single reef.  As we approached the harbor, the wind picked up so we anchored and put in a second reef.   Under two reefs, we tacked into the harber and then rowed to our protected slip.  A hot shower and meal at the hotel bar finished up a great day.

Heading out - (the mainsail foot should be lower)


It rained so much the next day that roads were flooded all over the town.  We bought umbrellas and took the opportunity to do some walking and see a movie.
A dodger made from a tarp keeps the rain out
Commercial Oyster Drege
The weather outlook was slightly better the next day so we abandoned our posh slip and sailed out for a night or two on the bay.  Our plan was to make it through the Kent Island Narrows at slack tide and anchor north of there, but we got a late start and by the time we made it to the bridge a ominous storm front moved in from the west and we scooted into a small creek south of our target at about 3:30 in the afternoon.  We were comfy in our tiny cabin by the time the storm hit and after an hour or so, the wind eased up and the rain stopped and we were able to cook a hot meal and spend a relaxing evening in the cockpit.  We read to each each other from "The Code of the Woosters", by P.G. Wodehouse.

Wing and Wing on the Chesapeake Bay
The next day came bright, cold and windy with few clouds and winds at 15 to 20 mph.  We were able to put our new boat through its paces.

We started out in the morning with two reefs and water ballast. According to the nearby weather buoy winds were gusting to 27 mph (http://www.ndbc.noaa...p?station=44062).  Beating close hauled to windward for about two hours, we made five miles up to Kent Narrows and then floated downwind into the bay.  We always had a hand on the mainsheet but never had to pop it in a gust.  It was a bit wet at times.

In the open bay the wind moderated to 18-22 mph so I shook out a reef on a close reach, still with water ballast.  On a boad reach with ballast we were making 7-8 mph.  I put down the anderson bailer and in about 15 minutes all of the ballast water had been drained from the tank.  We started surfing and gained about 1 to 2 mph.  Our max speed was 11mph with one reef tied in and still a very comfortable ride.

Self Steering on a Broad Reach

Julie at the helm
After about 41 miles of adventure we dropped anchor in a little creek off the Wye river, close to a ghostly sunken tree and an osprey nest.  After dinner, we watched in amazement as the Osprey parents taught their chick how to fly.  We first noticed a fuss when the chick was in the air, furiously beating its wings and making lots of noise.  It was working much harder to stay aloft than the parents that were circling nearby.  The chick tried to seek refuge in a nearby tree but every time it got close one of the parents would swoop down and drive it back into the air.  This went on for at least five minutes until finally the parents showed some mercy and let the chick land.  They didn't give it much chance to rest though - after only a few minutes they were back at it again.

Anchorage in the Wye River

Drying out after a wet day

Oars at the ready

Final day of the cruise - 41 miles

Summary
This cruise was our third sail on the boat and I felt we got a good start at understanding how she works.  A few observations:
  • The new oars worked out very well (we didn't bring a motor).  I added some weights (zing shaft annodes) near the handles to give them a counter balance.
  • I love the way the boat heaves-to.  Just sheet in the mizzen, free the main, release the tiller and she drifts gently downwind with her bow pointed 45 degrees - stable and quiet.
  • We had a lot of rain on this cruise and it was great having a cabin but I found myself wishing for a cockpit tent. 
  • I love the anchor pulpit.  My anchor can be muddy and I don't have to worry too much.
  • I was very impressed to see her self-steering on a reach in fairly confused seas.  I found that I sometimes need to let the mizzen luff a bit in order to get her self-steering.  

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Building Oars and Oarlocks

Having decided on Tulip Poplar for my oars, I drove down to Hearne hardwoods and found a straight plank 12' long x 2" thick.  I had them joint one edge.  I cut the two looms to 1 3/4" square and then used my jointer to make them eight sided.
Make the loops eight sided 
I marked off 10" by 1 1/8" diameter handles and then cut them out.
Cut out the handles

Make the handles eight sided
 I used a rasp, plane, chisel and sand paper to get everything mostly round.  As with most of my projects, I was able to justify the purchase of a new tool.  In this case it was a saw rasp from duckworks.
Round with a rasp and sand paper
I should have cut out the curved flats where the blades meet the looms before I rounded the looms - it would have been so much easier.  Ah well.  Then I glued on the blades.  I didn't have any marine plywood handy so I used AC Fir.  I put a fillet of thickened epoxy and embedded five or ten strands of linear fiberglass into the fillet.
Glue the blades
I tapered the loom with a drawknife and gave everything a coat of epoxy.  Then I put on three coats of spar varnish on the looms and a few coats of white rust-oleum enamel on the blades.
Taper the looms

Coat with epoxy, then varnish
10' 3" - that is a long oar
I made buttons (or stops) out of 1/4" nylon braid.  I tied a turks head as tight as I could get it but it was still loose enough to slide when subjected to a lot of force.  I varnished them in place - hopefully it will be good enough to keep them in place.
Turks Head Buttons
 After a trial row I found the oars needed counter weights.  I chose 1 3/4" propeller shaft zincs, each weighing 2.5 lbs each.  I think they are just right.
Couterweights
The cockpit coaming is about four or five inches inboard of where the oarlocks are normally mounted on a Core Sound 20 so I created outriggers out of ash and cherry.  The geometry isn't ideal - I have to sit on four or more inches of foam cushions to be comfortable.  

Outriggers for oar locks

Outriggers mounted on the coaming

Stowed under the coaming
Oars at the ready






Sunday, January 12, 2014

Building two CLC Kayaks

the beauty of boatbuilding

After a lifetime of small sailboats, Julie and I are building two kayaks from Chesapeake Light Craft.  I'm still a sailor at heart, but Julie is probably more suited to kayaking. We can envision all sorts of fun combinations of sail + kayak.

I will build the Shearwater 16 and Julie will build a Chesapeake LT 16.  We bought the kits while at the Mid Atlantic Small Craft Festival and picked up kits a few weeks later from CLC's shop in Annapolis, MD.

The first  step was to augment my already extensive set of boatbuilding tools.  This included lots of different clamps from Harbor Freight Tools.  I also added to my workbench a few bench dogs manufactured by Record.  I inherited these beautiful cast iron devices from my grandfather.  They probably date from the fifties or sixties.
Record Bench Dog
 I also made a few light weight saw horses for assembling the panels.
light weight saw horse

Here's a view of panels being joined together.

Panel assembly

The temperature in my basement shop is in the low 50 degrees F so we are using work lamps with 70 Watt incandesent bulbs to get the surface temperature high enough to cure the epoxy.

heating lamps
The book case in the background has every issue of Small Boat Journal and most issues of Messing About in Boats.
the beauty of machine cut plywood kits


Sunday, January 5, 2014

Tulip Poplar for Oars?

Our new Core Sound 20, Summer Breeze, needs a set of oars.   After researching various oar designs on the web and comparing the mechanical and subjective qualities of various woods, I've decided to make them out of Tulip Poplar which is cheap and plentiful here in south eastern Pennsylvania.  People are surprised when I tell them of my choice so I'm posting my analysis here.

Table 1 shows a few select woods that I wanted to compare.  Most of the mechanical properties are taken directly from the Wood Database, a fantastic resource for investigating boat building woods.

Table 1. Properties of woods for making oars

The table provides Density (how heavy the oars will be), Modulus of Rupture which denotes strength against bending force, Modulus of Elasticity which denotes bendyness, and price per board-foot.  FAS is code for furniture grade wood.

I want a wood that is light, strong and bendy.  It should look good but not cost too much.  Typical woods for oars and other spars include Sitka Spruce, Ash, Pine and Fir.  I am lucky to be 30 minutes drive from one of the best hardwood suppliers in the country, Hearne Hardwoods. The large yard is piled high with flitch cut logs air drying or waiting to be milled.

Flitch log at Hearne Hardwoods
They have great prices on Ash, Cherry, Pine, Tulip Poplar and lots of other exotics.  Most of the prices in Table 1 come from Hearne.  I've ranked my selection based on weight (density), elasticity, strength (modulus of rupture), quality (FAS, common, select, clear) and price:
  • Sitka Spruce is very expensive ($15/BF Chesapeake Light Craft).  It has a good strength to weight ratio and is very elastic.  Too expensive around here.
  • Eastern White Pine is the lightest in my list but also the weakest and most brittle (least elastic).  Hearne has some very clear white pine, but it is expensive.  
  • Spanish Cedar is great to work with and beautiful to look at but it is brittle, a bit heavy and on the expensive side.
  • White Ash is the strongest (modulus of rupture) and most elastic but also the heaviest.  Many great paddles and oars are made from White Ash and it is inexpensive but too heavy for my taste.
  • I included Black Cherry just out of curiosity.  I think it might make fine oars.  It is more rot resistant than Ash but also less strong and elastic and costs more.  It is prettier, easier to work but not as tough.  There is a lot of locally grown cherry in PA so it is relatively cheap here.
  • Western Hemlock (Hem-Fir) 2x stock from Lowes is cheap and has great mechanical properties.  Because it is only available around here as construction lumber (common grade), even the best planks will have some small knots.  
  • Tulip Poplar has great mechanical properties, is fun to work with and looks good.  Hearne has great pricing on FAS grade (furniture grade) stock in many dimensions.
Grahame Byrnes of B&B Yacht Designs told me that Hem-fir is a great alternative to sitka spruce.  The wood database confirms this (Table 2).  Tulip Poplar appears to be another great alternative.  Robb White, a well known boat builder and writer used Tulip Poplar for many of his beautiful custom boats. Compared to hem-fir it is much prettier, easier to work with, just as light, about as strong and elastic and not much more expensive.

Table 2.  Hem-Fir and Tulip Poplar vs Sitka Spruce


Tulip Poplar is the wood for me.


Friday, December 20, 2013

Our new Core Sound 20 Mark II, B&B Messabout 2013, Righting Test

CS 20 mkII under sail
During the Watertribe North Carolina Challenge (see previous post), we visited with Tony on his beautiful Princess 26, designed by Grahame Byrnes of B&B Yacht Designs.  As we socialized in the cabin talking about life and boats I mentioned that I was planning to build a Core Sound 20, Mk II and he responded that the prototype boat was for sale.  I was thrilled to hear it since I had followed the construction of this boat since the first plank was cut.  I immediately called Chick, the owner/builder, and arranged for a visit the next day.

In Chick's shop

Julie and I had a good look at the boat, Summer Breeze, and liked what we saw.  Chick is a fine boat builder and his skill was evident in the quality of this boat.  He was selling because he and his family were moving from the coast to the mountains.  On the 10 hour drive back home from North Carolina we decided to buy it. 

We planned the pickup of the boat to coincide with the anual B&B Messabout, an even that is attended by builders of B&B boats from all over.  There were visitors from Michigan, Florida, New Jersey, Pennsylvania.  Boats included a Princesss 22, Princess 26, Core Sound 17, several Core Sound 20's.

Core Sound 20 Dawn Patrol 

Sun sets on the B&B Messabout

Beautifully crafted Core Sound 17.  All controls led to the aft cockpit.

Before we left we had a chance to perform a test of the waterballast.  It took three adults pulling on halyards and masts to get her over on her side.

It takes a lot of force to pull her over

Once down, it took about 5lbs force at the tip of the main mast to keep her down.

All the way over, still self-righting
popping back up

When we released the mast, the boat popped up like a cork, the mainsheet whipping through the air with a snap.




Friday, November 29, 2013

Watertribe 2013 North Carolina Challenge

At the end of September, Julie and I joined this year’s Watertribe North Carolina Challenge, a 100 mile adventure race in small boats.
  
We were supposed leave the beach at 7:30 am on Friday Sept 27, but the start was postponed and later cancelled  (the first time in the history of the race) because of high winds extending for three days or more.  We still had a great time meeting lots of fun and interesting people and camping and spending time near the water.

We made the 11 hour drive down to Cedar Island, NC on Wednesday and pitched a tent at the Driftwood Motel and Campgrounds in Cedar Island.  
North Carolina Bound
Our camping spot was beautiful.  It had a waterfront dock, soft grass and a small 8x8 shelter under which we pitched the tent.  By Thursday the National Weather Service was predicting NE 25 knot winds for several days.  A small craft advisory was in effect.  We rowed Creamcheese from the boat ramp into open water and then surfed down the breaking waves onto the beach.  I realized getting back out through that surf was going to be a problem for Creamcheese.

We had a great time making new friends, swapping stories about cruising and boat building and learning new tricks and training techniques.  

Creamcheese between a Vanguard 16 and WildBlue's Sirocco 15.

A custom trimaran, Leatherlungs' CLC Noreaster, a Sea Pearl

An old Moth converted to a trimaran - over 200sq ft of sail
on a 15' boat!

Sirocco 15, Core Sound 20 "Dawn Patrol" lands on the
beach in the background.


In the morning ...



Ah well.... next year.
The moth sails south

Preparations for Watertribe 2013 North Carolina Challenge

Preparation for the Watertribe 2013 North Carolina Challenge involved training and equipment upgrades.  We did our rowing on two small local lakes.

Practice for rowing the Harlowe Canal - mast down

Sustained 2.5 mph rowing with all gear

We did a capsize test to get comfortable with self rescue: Climb up on the deck, grab the mast and hang over the water.  Spalsh.

Prepare to capsize

Creamcheese floats high on her side
Swim around the the exposed bottom.  Reach up and grab the chine log.  Give it a gentle downward pull.  The boat pops back upright.

Back up, boarding from the stern
Swim around to the stern, climb into the boat.  Start bailing.  There will be about five inches of water in the cockpit.  None in the cabin.

Slot-top cover, halyard
I wanted the slot top cover to protect the cabin while under sail but the halyard was cleated down in the cabin which would have made it difficult to drop sail at a moments notice.  I routed the halyard through a raceline check block to a belaying pin set into the aft deck rail.

vent
To sleep in the cabin while it was wet, a simple vent made out of PVC pipe and a recycled Philadelphia Cream Cheese container.  Pun intended.

cockpit storage pockets, netting in the cabin
I added canvas pockets in the cockpit and storage netting in the cabin.

bronze oar hardware
We started the year out with galvanized oarlocks and oarlock sockets, but these were squeaky and dirty.  It didn't take too many miles of rowing to convince us to switch back to bronze.  I added leather buttons on the oar leathers and tennis racquet "overgrip" tape while I was at it.