Sunday, January 12, 2014

Building two CLC Kayaks

the beauty of boatbuilding

After a lifetime of small sailboats, Julie and I are building two kayaks from Chesapeake Light Craft.  I'm still a sailor at heart, but Julie is probably more suited to kayaking. We can envision all sorts of fun combinations of sail + kayak.

I will build the Shearwater 16 and Julie will build a Chesapeake LT 16.  We bought the kits while at the Mid Atlantic Small Craft Festival and picked up kits a few weeks later from CLC's shop in Annapolis, MD.

The first  step was to augment my already extensive set of boatbuilding tools.  This included lots of different clamps from Harbor Freight Tools.  I also added to my workbench a few bench dogs manufactured by Record.  I inherited these beautiful cast iron devices from my grandfather.  They probably date from the fifties or sixties.
Record Bench Dog
 I also made a few light weight saw horses for assembling the panels.
light weight saw horse

Here's a view of panels being joined together.

Panel assembly

The temperature in my basement shop is in the low 50 degrees F so we are using work lamps with 70 Watt incandesent bulbs to get the surface temperature high enough to cure the epoxy.

heating lamps
The book case in the background has every issue of Small Boat Journal and most issues of Messing About in Boats.
the beauty of machine cut plywood kits


Sunday, January 5, 2014

Tulip Poplar for Oars?

Our new Core Sound 20, Summer Breeze, needs a set of oars.   After researching various oar designs on the web and comparing the mechanical and subjective qualities of various woods, I've decided to make them out of Tulip Poplar which is cheap and plentiful here in south eastern Pennsylvania.  People are surprised when I tell them of my choice so I'm posting my analysis here.

Table 1 shows a few select woods that I wanted to compare.  Most of the mechanical properties are taken directly from the Wood Database, a fantastic resource for investigating boat building woods.

Table 1. Properties of woods for making oars

The table provides Density (how heavy the oars will be), Modulus of Rupture which denotes strength against bending force, Modulus of Elasticity which denotes bendyness, and price per board-foot.  FAS is code for furniture grade wood.

I want a wood that is light, strong and bendy.  It should look good but not cost too much.  Typical woods for oars and other spars include Sitka Spruce, Ash, Pine and Fir.  I am lucky to be 30 minutes drive from one of the best hardwood suppliers in the country, Hearne Hardwoods. The large yard is piled high with flitch cut logs air drying or waiting to be milled.

Flitch log at Hearne Hardwoods
They have great prices on Ash, Cherry, Pine, Tulip Poplar and lots of other exotics.  Most of the prices in Table 1 come from Hearne.  I've ranked my selection based on weight (density), elasticity, strength (modulus of rupture), quality (FAS, common, select, clear) and price:
  • Sitka Spruce is very expensive ($15/BF Chesapeake Light Craft).  It has a good strength to weight ratio and is very elastic.  Too expensive around here.
  • Eastern White Pine is the lightest in my list but also the weakest and most brittle (least elastic).  Hearne has some very clear white pine, but it is expensive.  
  • Spanish Cedar is great to work with and beautiful to look at but it is brittle, a bit heavy and on the expensive side.
  • White Ash is the strongest (modulus of rupture) and most elastic but also the heaviest.  Many great paddles and oars are made from White Ash and it is inexpensive but too heavy for my taste.
  • I included Black Cherry just out of curiosity.  I think it might make fine oars.  It is more rot resistant than Ash but also less strong and elastic and costs more.  It is prettier, easier to work but not as tough.  There is a lot of locally grown cherry in PA so it is relatively cheap here.
  • Western Hemlock (Hem-Fir) 2x stock from Lowes is cheap and has great mechanical properties.  Because it is only available around here as construction lumber (common grade), even the best planks will have some small knots.  
  • Tulip Poplar has great mechanical properties, is fun to work with and looks good.  Hearne has great pricing on FAS grade (furniture grade) stock in many dimensions.
Grahame Byrnes of B&B Yacht Designs told me that Hem-fir is a great alternative to sitka spruce.  The wood database confirms this (Table 2).  Tulip Poplar appears to be another great alternative.  Robb White, a well known boat builder and writer used Tulip Poplar for many of his beautiful custom boats. Compared to hem-fir it is much prettier, easier to work with, just as light, about as strong and elastic and not much more expensive.

Table 2.  Hem-Fir and Tulip Poplar vs Sitka Spruce


Tulip Poplar is the wood for me.


Friday, December 20, 2013

Our new Core Sound 20 Mark II, B&B Messabout 2013, Righting Test

CS 20 mkII under sail
During the Watertribe North Carolina Challenge (see previous post), we visited with Tony on his beautiful Princess 26, designed by Grahame Byrnes of B&B Yacht Designs.  As we socialized in the cabin talking about life and boats I mentioned that I was planning to build a Core Sound 20, Mk II and he responded that the prototype boat was for sale.  I was thrilled to hear it since I had followed the construction of this boat since the first plank was cut.  I immediately called Chick, the owner/builder, and arranged for a visit the next day.

In Chick's shop

Julie and I had a good look at the boat, Summer Breeze, and liked what we saw.  Chick is a fine boat builder and his skill was evident in the quality of this boat.  He was selling because he and his family were moving from the coast to the mountains.  On the 10 hour drive back home from North Carolina we decided to buy it. 

We planned the pickup of the boat to coincide with the anual B&B Messabout, an even that is attended by builders of B&B boats from all over.  There were visitors from Michigan, Florida, New Jersey, Pennsylvania.  Boats included a Princesss 22, Princess 26, Core Sound 17, several Core Sound 20's.

Core Sound 20 Dawn Patrol 

Sun sets on the B&B Messabout

Beautifully crafted Core Sound 17.  All controls led to the aft cockpit.

Before we left we had a chance to perform a test of the waterballast.  It took three adults pulling on halyards and masts to get her over on her side.

It takes a lot of force to pull her over

Once down, it took about 5lbs force at the tip of the main mast to keep her down.

All the way over, still self-righting
popping back up

When we released the mast, the boat popped up like a cork, the mainsheet whipping through the air with a snap.




Friday, November 29, 2013

Watertribe 2013 North Carolina Challenge

At the end of September, Julie and I joined this year’s Watertribe North Carolina Challenge, a 100 mile adventure race in small boats.
  
We were supposed leave the beach at 7:30 am on Friday Sept 27, but the start was postponed and later cancelled  (the first time in the history of the race) because of high winds extending for three days or more.  We still had a great time meeting lots of fun and interesting people and camping and spending time near the water.

We made the 11 hour drive down to Cedar Island, NC on Wednesday and pitched a tent at the Driftwood Motel and Campgrounds in Cedar Island.  
North Carolina Bound
Our camping spot was beautiful.  It had a waterfront dock, soft grass and a small 8x8 shelter under which we pitched the tent.  By Thursday the National Weather Service was predicting NE 25 knot winds for several days.  A small craft advisory was in effect.  We rowed Creamcheese from the boat ramp into open water and then surfed down the breaking waves onto the beach.  I realized getting back out through that surf was going to be a problem for Creamcheese.

We had a great time making new friends, swapping stories about cruising and boat building and learning new tricks and training techniques.  

Creamcheese between a Vanguard 16 and WildBlue's Sirocco 15.

A custom trimaran, Leatherlungs' CLC Noreaster, a Sea Pearl

An old Moth converted to a trimaran - over 200sq ft of sail
on a 15' boat!

Sirocco 15, Core Sound 20 "Dawn Patrol" lands on the
beach in the background.


In the morning ...



Ah well.... next year.
The moth sails south

Preparations for Watertribe 2013 North Carolina Challenge

Preparation for the Watertribe 2013 North Carolina Challenge involved training and equipment upgrades.  We did our rowing on two small local lakes.

Practice for rowing the Harlowe Canal - mast down

Sustained 2.5 mph rowing with all gear

We did a capsize test to get comfortable with self rescue: Climb up on the deck, grab the mast and hang over the water.  Spalsh.

Prepare to capsize

Creamcheese floats high on her side
Swim around the the exposed bottom.  Reach up and grab the chine log.  Give it a gentle downward pull.  The boat pops back upright.

Back up, boarding from the stern
Swim around to the stern, climb into the boat.  Start bailing.  There will be about five inches of water in the cockpit.  None in the cabin.

Slot-top cover, halyard
I wanted the slot top cover to protect the cabin while under sail but the halyard was cleated down in the cabin which would have made it difficult to drop sail at a moments notice.  I routed the halyard through a raceline check block to a belaying pin set into the aft deck rail.

vent
To sleep in the cabin while it was wet, a simple vent made out of PVC pipe and a recycled Philadelphia Cream Cheese container.  Pun intended.

cockpit storage pockets, netting in the cabin
I added canvas pockets in the cockpit and storage netting in the cabin.

bronze oar hardware
We started the year out with galvanized oarlocks and oarlock sockets, but these were squeaky and dirty.  It didn't take too many miles of rowing to convince us to switch back to bronze.  I added leather buttons on the oar leathers and tennis racquet "overgrip" tape while I was at it.

Friday, June 21, 2013

Fabric slot top cover for Creamcheese

Slot top cover for a Michalak AF3
For our spring cruise this year, I made a slot top cover to keep the rain out of the cabin while sailing.  The project made me learn about new fasteners and new techniques.

Materials:
As usual, Sailrite videos helped a lot.  In particular I learned how to make the boot top by copying from a  mainsail cover.

Mast boot

Finished product

Installation details
With the cover on, it is difficult to get into the cabin.  I think my next project will to make a new version  which is more like a dodger.  It will be fitted around a fiberglass hoop and have a vinyl window forward so that someone can sit up in the cabin and see forward.
Future project - a dodger



Wednesday, May 29, 2013

A mooring cover for The Drascombe, Tenara thread

Mooring cover for our Drascombe Longboat
Having met with some success in my new hobby of canvasworking, I decided to give my father the Christmas gift of a new mooring cover for his Drascombe Longboat.  Since the cover will be out in the brutal Florida sun most of the year, I chose Tenara thread, which is made of teflon.  My other projects have used v69 polyester thread which is strong and resists UV light more than most threads, but it still degrades over time and can loose up to half of its strength after a year in the sun.  Tenara on the other hand doesn't degrade at all.

Materials:

Tenara is so slippery that both my sewing machine and my mother's couldn't get the top thread  tension tight enough.


I spent hours trying to figure out how to increase the top thread tension and finally got fairly repeatable results by putting the thread under a gum eraser that was rubber banded to the sewing arm.

Extra friction mechanism:
rubber band and gum eraser

Mama's sewing machine

My sewing machine, spool holder - prevents twist

Corner fasteners
Design features:
  • laced front panels
  • webbing reinforced spine
  • two 1/4" fiberglass hoops
At the slip

The cover is a success.  It keeps the rain in the scuppers where it belongs and protects the mizzen sail, mainsail and other cockpit items from sun and rain.